Santiago de Compostela is the capital of the autonomous region of Galicia in northwestern Spain. The city is known first and foremost for the majestic cathedral at the center of the city’s Old Town (recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site), and for its place on the infamous Way of St. James (El Camino de Santiago), a pilgrimage undertaken by tens of thousands of pilgrims each year to visit the remains of one of the Apostles of Jesus Christ.
But in its role as the beating heart of Galicia, Santiago de Compostela is much more than just the terminus of a great pilgrimage. Galicia, known as Green Spain for its rolling hills and lush green hillsides, is quite different from the rest of Spain in terms of its climate, crops, and resources. With cool moist weather, hundreds of miles of coastline, and a vibrant fishing industry, Galicia (and by extension Santiago de Compostela) are the conduit through which much of Spain’s best wines, and most of its seafood make their way to the Spanish table.
Additionally, Galicians are known throughout Spain for being notably friendly, but enigmatic. They posses an easygoing manner and are quite proud of the natural beauty of their surroundings, and the unique bounty of the region. Galicia’s unique abundance and friendly nature are no more apparent than in the markets and shops of Galicia’s largest and most visited center of culture.
Santiago de Compostela & the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela
The city of Santiago de Cmpostela is an eclectic mix of modern day Galician Spain and old world charm, history and architecture. For pilgrims on The Way of St. James (El Camino de Santiago), a centuries old network of routes guiding travelers to the resting place of St. James the apostle, their journey ends at the towering cathedral that dominates one side of a large square in the city’s Old Town. The remains and relics of the apostle (and two of his disciples) are said to rest in a sealed vault beneath the cathedral’s main alter.
Along the narrow streets surrounding the cathedral, visitors find a myriad of shops, restaurants, markets and cafes offering everything from tourist trinkets and non-descript food to traditional Galician crafts, gourmet meals, tapas, and local meats, fruits and vegetables in markets frequented by locals. The area around the cathedral is a major crossroads within the city and serves pilgrims, tourists, and locals, as well as students at the University of Santiago de Compostela, which was founded in 1504 by Pope Julius and is well known for the study, promotion, and stewardship of Galician history and culture.
The cathedral itself is still a working cathedral and offers daily Catholic Mass (as well as a special “pilgrim’s mass” on certain days), and is open for limited self-guided tours. But given the cathedral and city’s extensive history, visitors are well advised to tour the cathedral and Old Town with a qualified guide in order to maximize their understanding of the cathedral’s place in local and religious history and lore.
Hostal dos Reis Catolicos and the Paradores of Spain
On the north side of Santiago de Compostela’s main square (where the cathedral’s main entrance is located) sits the Hostal dos Reis Catolicos, completed in 1499 this magnificent building has at one time or another been a hostel for travelers, a hospital catering to pilgrims, and is now one of the incomparable Spanish Paradores (a series of 5-star luxury hotels owned and operated by the Spanish government throughout the country, and in historic and architecturally significant buildings such as disused abbeys, monasteries, palaces, and castles). While expensive, this choice of lodging offers a one-of-a-kind opportunity to enjoy both top of the line luxury accommodations and a unique slice of history.
The Hostal dos Reis Catolicos also offers several highly rated dining choices, a comfortable bar (serving both indoors and in a sheltered outdoor seating area overlooking the Old Town square), and guided tours for history buffs and curious travelers. Having served as a hostel nearly half a century ago, the Hostal dos Reis Catolicos qualifies, by some accounts, as the oldest hotel in the world.
Galicia is Green Spain
Located on Spain’s Atlanta Coast, just above Portugal, and bordered on the north by the Bay of Biscay, Galicia is primarily a maritime region. The Galician countryside is much cooler and wetter than the rest of Spain. As a result the region’s lush green fields produce excellent grapes for growing wines, such as the famous white Albarino varietal, and a host of reds and whites from the Ribera Sacra, and numerous other bountiful grape growing regions. Likewise cattle fare well on the lush Galician hillsides, lending themselves to production of excellent cheeses, such as Spain’s signature soft, mild Tetilla cheese.
Additionally, Galicia has endured a tumultuous history, fraught with occupation and conquest. If a visitor looks closely enough they’ll find traces of the Celts, Moors, and other occupiers. For evidence of this, one need look no further than the bagpiper who plays daily in Santiago de Compostela’s main square.
As is the case with the Galician people themselves, it’s hard to limit the hallmarks and “best parts” of Santiago de Compostela and Galicia to a simple list.
At the end of a long and personally resonant journey, Santiago de Compostella and its cathedral are places of nearly magical significance. But, for travelers visiting for reasons other than completion of the Way of St. James (El Camino de Santiago), Santiago de Compostela can be a visually stunning town overflowing with history, art, and the rich culture of Galicia.
Glenn Kaufmann - Having moved every four years up to the age of 12, I've always been something of a restless soul ready to take on the next big thing. I ...
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